Monday, January 25, 2016

Ships of Mercy: READ IT BECAUSE: You will see the transformation of a dream into the reality of millions of lives changed forever.

My 20162015 and 2014 Reading Lists.



Ships of Mercy


READ IT BECAUSE: You will see the transformation of a dream into the reality of millions of lives changed forever.  Don Stephens' story is an incredible one.  That Mercy Ships is the successful organization that it is today is nothing short of a miracle.  Prior to Africa Mercy's arrival here in Madagascar, I actually had no clue about it so I am guessing most of you don't either.

Long story short: a man had a dream to one day have a fleet of hospital ships that provide free surgeries to the poorest nations in the world.   Today Mercy Ships has already served millions and is set to serve even more.

Construction on a $100 million second ship has already begun and is schedule to be completed in 2018.  Once it's done, that ship will like serve southeast Africa (i.e., Madagascar, Tanzania, Mozambique) and the Africa Mercy will return to service in West Africa.

I had the opportunity to tour the Mercy Ship back in December with my friend who is a chaplain aboard the ship.  Here's the most amazing thing he told me:

Not only is everyone on the ship a volunteer--from the shipdrivers, to the cooks, to the cleaners, to the school teachers, to the nurses, to the surgeons--but everyone is also PAYING to be on the ship.  
That's right, everyone pays a fee for room and board!  It's an amazing operation to see first hand the floating hospital and all the crew on board.  There's all sorts of volunteer opportunities, some people come aboard for a few weeks and some for a few years.

The book also discusses the specific types of surgeries that Mercy Ships does: maxillofacial surgery, plastic surgery, orthopedic surgery eye surgery, and VVF repair (I had no clue what this last one even was or just how widespread this problem is in impoverished countries--just click, so sad).

Some of the most heartening surgeries, of course, are the ones where huge tumors or deformities are removed.  Stephens hits the nail on the head as he describes the plight of these patients prior to Mercy Ships: "They become a nonperson, hiding in the bush, shunned, literally waiting to die."  Sambany (in the picture below) from Madagascar is a great example of one of those people who had the entire trajectory of their his life changed by Mercy Ships.























I will end my review with the best part yet--construction has begun on another Mercy Ship--it's scheduled to be completed in 2018.  It's not finalized yet, but this boat will focus on Eastern Africa, particularly, Madagascar, Mozambique and Tanzania!  Yes, that means Mercy Ships will be return to Madagascar time and time again over the coming decades!

My photos:



Little kiddos getting taken out for daily therapy

A Starbucks Cafe

Offsite Recovery



Mercy Ships was originally a Danish Railway Ship






LINKS:
https://www.facebook.com/MercyShips/
http://mercyships.org/

Monday, January 18, 2016

Kid's Clothing Factory Location in Tana--Current Sale is Going On This Week!

As I've written about before businesses in Madagascar seem to pride themselves on being difficult to find and rarely if ever have even small signage.  They certainly won't have an online presence.

One great example of this is MIROGLASS downtown--it's a great custom framing shop downtown that we wrote about here.

Another example is Jardin Secret--it's a cool little artisan shop that makes all types of aluminum jewelry and houseware.  It would be impossible to find it looking at its facebook page or website.   We were only able to find it because we took our Malagasy driver who asked enough questions in the general vicinity of the shop so that we were able to find it after several minutes.

But NONAME FACTORY SHOP takes the proverbial gateau.  My darling wife had been there several times before because a friend of hers had taken her there.  We went there today and decided to break the chain of ambiguity by providing directions and some information about this shop (it's in the general Galaxy complex of buildings)

It's open from 0800-1700 (Monday-Friday)...at least in theory...this is Madagascar after all.  It's cash only and its stock varies widely.  It's co-located with the factory that exports to Europe and the US.  The shop mainly sells items that they made too many of or that have some slight aberration (it's rare that you can ever find the issue--I haven't ever).  Here's a list of brands that they were selling today.  The best part is that the price ranges from $3-15 a piece.  Many of these items sell in stores in Paris and NYC for $70 each!  Currently they have a sale going on with a ton of items in the $3-5 range (this is not normal so go there this week!).

Women's Brands: Etam, Earth Addict, Enfasis, Tam-Tam, Darjeeling, Camaieu, Mademoiselle Jacadi

Kid's Brands: Jacadi, Le Petit Bateau, Obaibi



Driving toward the entrance which is on the right

This is the gate that you bang on.  Then to the right up two flights of stairs












Sunday, January 17, 2016

Why You Should Start Writing Your Memoir Now (And Be Making Photo Albums)

Our 20162015 and 2014 Reading Lists.


























Here's Why You Should Start Writing Your Memoir Now (And Be Making Photo Albums)

When I was young we had slide shows.  My dad sorted and collected trays upon trays upon trays of negatives that he would load up on Saturday nights.  He'd hang a sheet in the living room, dim the lights and sometimes put on some background music (on his boombox!).  He'd set the projector on our coffee table atop stacks of his old Naval Academy yearbooks to get the height just right.  I still remember the slight chemical smell as the projector bulb heated up and shot the images across the room.  Growing up, these slide shows were better than going to the movies.  It was our favorite family event as we got to relive past vacations and trips.  One of our dad's favorite sayings was "See you did have a happy childhood, I've got the pictures to prove it."































Along with his careful curation of projector trays,  he also made stacks and stacks of scrapbook albums. The binding of each puffy album described the event in black or red magic marker: Okinawa 80-83, White Sulphur Springs 91, Yuma, AZ 79-81.  Inside each album is a carefully narrated, often pithy description of the events and activities captured there.  Some albums would be tongue in cheek (think along the lines of the Calvin n' Hobbes comic strips where Calvin would layer his imagination on top of actual events).  I recall one album with a spy motif from when relatives visited us in Morocco. He'd also add apropos comics, articles, and letters to the editors to accent the pictures.   

My entire childhood lays frozen between the pages.  Four by six memories captured between thousands of sticky photo mounting corners.  Growing up I've paged through these albums so many times that I'm no longer sure if I remember the actual event or the version I've seen hundreds of times in the album.


























Today something sad is happening--it's the facebookification of our memories.

Facebookification does two nefarious things, it oversimplifies and it oversaturates.

Special/keystone events  are relegated to one line headers (i.e., oversimplication) that are nearly impossible to find or look back upon.  What will the scenario be like twenty years from now?  Hey Macee, here's your 4th birthday, let me just look back 16 years on my timeline and try to find the pictures.

Here's a test, try to find an event from three years on your Facebook timeline...not a user friendly experience, n'est-ce pas.  Certainly not like looking back in a physical photo album or scrapbook. Then, once you find an event there might be 50 pictures in the album.  Why? Because it's easy to hit the upload button, you don't need to actually look through the pictures and find the best ones that actually capture the moment or that tell a story.

More importantly, looking back it's hard to separate (and then locate) the insignificant "noise" events (i.e., out on a family walk--check out the beautiful sky here) from the substantive ones (i.e., Jackson's first steps!).

This is because Facebook doesn't care about your family history.  It wasn't made for thoughtful reflection on the past.  It was built for a history, but only the history of the last five minutes.

Which brings me to Stories by John Armstrong.  

Unfortunately, Armstrong has chosen not to try to publish his striking memoir of short vignettes that span the course of his memorable life. Armstrong has been a reporter, editor, civic leader, and until his retirement in 2008 was the publisher of the Bay Area News group.  He has a newspaper copyboy during JFK's assassination and met Martin Luther King and Pope John Paul II (along with about 100 other notable figures).  He and his wife Sandy have been invited to vacation with Audrey Hepburn; he's been scolded by Kissinger at the height of the Cold War and personally witnessed to by Billy Graham. While these stories are entertaining, the real gravity in the collection comes from the emotional honesty of Armstrong in his self-examination as he deals with growing old, Alzheimers, and memory loss amidst an enduring faithfulness with the love of his life.  The depth of this level of emotional honesty laid bare on the pages are unlike anything I've ever read.

I've had the good fortune to know John Armstrong as Emily's jovial and thoughtful godfather.  In person, John has that special combination of intelligence, recall, jocularity and humor that makes him the life of any party, dinner, car or elevator ride.

His book is easily one of the more influential tomes that I've read (ever) and prompted my greater reflection on the nature of memories, (family) history and relationships.  Whether Armstrong acknowledges it or not, Stories is really written as a gift to his family and friends.

As children our parents exist in a plane wholly separate from our intimate, specific knowledge of them.  As teenagers that plane further warps and separates the two parties.  As we grow into adulthood that relationship shifts and our planes of existence converge but that quarter century delta--that previous distance can never be closed or gained.  A memoir likes this, however, does much to lessen the psychic effects of that gap.  This type of collection cracks open that secret door to our parents' history and gives us the chance to share in the legacy of memories.  Every family has those funny, sad, angry or touching stories from our past--those memories that get retold each Thanksgiving or Christmas, rehashed and remixed over the years and decades--but without being written down they all eventually fade and lose their luster.

Rudyard Kipling once said that "if history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten."  Personally, as I've grown older, and as I watch my children grow, learn to walk, learn to speak in front of my very eyes and as I see my parents and grandparents grow older, I start to realize all the more the value of a family's history.  As I recall the stories my own grandmother would tell, I realize that I've already lost some of the details of those stories.  My own children will never get to meet my grandmother who passed away several years ago--they will never know the smell of her thick perfume, they will never crunch away on her 'emergencies'--the candies she always carried in her purse for us.  Even now, I struggle to recall the punchline to her "toothbrush" joke--one that used to bring us to tears.

Ultimately, Stories stands as a call for each of us to write it down--to carpe historia.  In Stranger than Fiction, Chuck Palahniuk (of Fight Club fame) perfectly captures the crucial elements in writing a book as he instructs that "A good story should make you laugh, and a moment later break your heart."  John Armstrong's book takes that notion a step further as we get to share in a good life--one littered with decades with laughter but also moments of tears and years of heart-breaking courage.

I'll close by urging you to take a moment at some point today or tomorrow and jot down one memory from your childhood.

It may only be a few sentences but write it down somewhere that you can return to it and add to it with other memories in the future.  One day, more than anything those pages will be a gift your children and grandchildren can cherish forever.


Friday, January 15, 2016

I Do Not Come to You by Chance: My Notes. READ IT BECAUSE: You'll finally get to know that Nigerian Prince! (Nigeria)

I Do Not Come to You by Chance (Nigeria)



READ IT BECAUSE: You'll finally get to know that Nigerian prince who has been emailing you! In her debut novel Nwaubani follows in the footsteps of Adichie (read my review of Americanah here) as she pulls back the curtain on the 419 industry in Nigeria.  For the uninitiated, 419 scams are those oddly written emails that you've probably received before by a Nigerian prince or businessman who has received a multi-million dollar windfall but needs your help to access the funds.  Normally the letter ends with a plea for you to pay a small advance "convenience" or "administrative fee" in order to claim a substantial share of the funds.

With an eye for humor and for heart, Nwaubani crafts a classic tragedy that follows the rise of Kingsley as he ascends a 419 crime syndicate.  The single aspect that best demonstrates the author's deft writing hands is her ability to humanize Kingsley as he becomes more and more adept at swindling gullible mugus.  It's easy to quickly despise 419ers but much harder to explore their (possible) motives in an honest and thoughtful manner.

Kingsley has a key moment of interior monologue about halfway through the book where he runs through a list of all the charitable things his mentor "Cash Daddy" has done with the illicit funds and finally concludes that "no matter what the media proclaimed, we were not villains, and the good people of Eastern Nigeria knew it."  This ends up likely being the point of no return for the narrator.

My favorite part of the novel, however, was how perfectly Nwaubani captures the different voices and dialects of Nigeria.  It's such a fascinating and markedly different style from American writing. Take for instance how she describes a glass shattering on the floor: "The glass cup dropped from my hand and colonized a large portion of the marble floor."  Or when Kingsley spots several egregious typographical errors: "At least nine muscular typographical errors rose from the page and gave me a slap across the face."  Initially, this descriptive flair for the hyperbolic was a bit overwhelming but the more I became invested in the characters the more I began to enjoy her style.

As I finished this fast-paced novel, my only regret is that she hasn't published any other books since her 2010 debut. For now I will have to satisfy myself with the wealth of essays and articles she has written since then.

*One of my Reading Around the Continent books--the full list is here.
**See our 20162015 and 2014 Reading Lists.



Other Contemporary Nigerian Writers You Should Read:


I Do Not Come to You by Chance by Adaobi Tricia Nwaubani
Last annotated on January 12, 2016

“I think a child should be named for his destiny so that whenever he hears his name, he has an idea of the sort of future that is expected of him. Not according to the circumstances of his birth. The past is constraining but the future has no limits.” He smiled again. “I shall call you Augustina.” Augustina meditated on his words as she walked back inside.  Read more at location 226

Ola was the sugar in my tea. Read more at location 434

Ola was a Laboratory Technology student whose family also lived in Umuahia. She was two years younger than I, enthusiastic about academics and knew exactly where she was headed in life. Her fingernails and toenails were always clean. Her hair never stank, even when she wore braids for over two weeks. She always wore her makeup light and natural and she still had some hair remaining from her eyebrows. Read more at location 485

in our society these days, besides paper qualifications and a high intelligence quotient, you usually needed to have “long-leg.” You needed to know someone, or someone who knew someone, before you could access the most basic things. Read more at location 526

One of the omnipresent hitches with the National Electric Power Authority supply had struck. In keeping with their more popular acronym—Never Expect Power Always—power had been cut. Read more at location 896

But we must never make permanent decisions based on temporary circumstances. Read more at location 1078

It was every Igbo man’s dream to own a house in his homeland—a place where he could retire from the hustle and bustle of city life in the twilight of his years; a place where he could host guests for his daughters’ traditional wedding ceremonies; a place where his family could entertain the well-wishers who came to attend his funeral. Read more at location 1098

The nurse handed me a sheet of paper. I studied the handwritten list. The items included a pack of cotton wool, bottle of Izal disinfectant, pack of needles, pack of syringes, roll of plaster, disposable catheter bags, bleach, gloves… “What is this?” I asked. “Those are the things we need for your father’s care,” Read more at location 1227

“We never admit any patient who is not accompanied by relatives.” Read more at location 1234

like many of her compatriots from Edo in the Mid-West region of Nigeria, had a mother tongue–induced speech deficiency that prevented her from putting the required velar emphasis on her X sounds. They always came out sounding like an S. Read more at location 1265

“And he never stopped  Reading; he always had a book in his hands. Truly, I’ve never met a more intelligent man in my life.” Read more at location 2155

“Yes, sit in the owner’s corner,” Eugene and Charity chanted. With a modest smile, my mother went round to the back right of the car, where people who could afford chauffeurs usually sat. Read more at location 2531

You know the Americans are much more difficult.” I nodded. I had heard that the American was the one embassy where no officials agreed to have their palms greased in exchange for visas or for keeping closed eyes about spurious documents. Even booking an interview date with either of their embassies, in Abuja or Lagos, could take several months. Read more at location 2763

knew that we were in the white man’s land. Still, I felt a slight shock at seeing so many white people walking about in one place at the same time. It was extremely rare to see a white person on the streets of the average, small Nigerian town. So rare, in fact, that sometimes in Umuahia, people would stop and stare at a white person, some chanting “Oyibo,” hoping that the white person would turn and wave. Read more at location 2918

How could English people have such bad teeth? Or perhaps these were just immigrants, and not real English people. Read more at location 2927

“white man doesn’t understand black man’s face. Do you know that I can give you my passport to travel with…Even if your nose is ten times bigger than my own, they won’t even notice?” Read more at location 2950

Arriving late, no apologies, it was typical. Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you a bona fide Nigerian top government official. Read more at location 2984

How could anybody look at Cash Daddy and imagine that his name could ever be anything like Alhaji Mahmud—a name that was more likely to belong to a Hausa person from the northern part of Nigeria? Cash Daddy had the unmistakable thick head and chunky features of the Igbos. Plus, a concrete Igbo accent. It did not matter whether it was a three-letter word or a five-letter word, each came out with its original number of syllables quadrupled, and with so much emphasis on the consonants that it sounded as if he were banging on them with a sledgehammer. The Hausas had more delicate and slender facial features, and the phonetic structure of their mother tongue gave them an accent that sounded almost Western. Read more at location 3030

That was one thing everybody liked about Cash Daddy. He was not a cheat. Unlike some godfathers who reversed tongues when good things came in, Cash Daddy always made sure that each participant in a job received his fair share. In his own special way, my uncle was an honest man. Read more at location 3063

A buja was different from other Nigerian cities. There were no hawkers in the streets, no okadas buzzing about like flies, no overflowing garbage cans with un-clothed schizophrenics scavenging in them for their daily sustenance. None of the roads had potholes and all the traffic lights were working. And unlike in our parts, where a flashy car was the ninth wonder of the world, most of the cars here were sleek, many with tinted windows. Read more at location 3148

a Potemkin village. Mr. Winterbottom would probably never have to cross the River Niger to Igbo land, where poverty and disarray would stare him eyeball to eyeball. Not only was Abuja the Federal Capital Territory and the new seat of government, it was probably the most expensive city in Nigeria. Whenever the masses complained about the astronomical costs of living, the government reminded them that Abuja was not for everyone. Read more at location 3175

Lord Lugard amalgamated the Northern and Southern protectorates of the British Colony, and bundled them up into one country which Lady Lugard had named “area around the Niger”—Nigeria. Read more at location 3308

Blaming problems on 419ers had turned into a national pastime, but then, it all depended on which part of the elephant you could feel. I knew, for example, that Cash Daddy was personally responsible for the upkeep of the 221 orphans in the Daughters of St. Jacinta Orphanage, Aba. He tarred all the roads in my mother’s local community. He dug boreholes, installed streetlights, built a primary health care center. Just two days ago, I received a letter from the Old Boys’ Association of my secondary school requesting my contribution toward a new classroom block. I replied immediately to say I would fund the whole project. I knew what it felt like to endure classrooms that had no windows, no doors, and no tiles on the floors, just because the complete funds pledged toward the project had not yet been collected. So, no matter what the media proclaimed, we were not villains, and the good people of Eastern Nigeria knew it. Read more at location 3401

Note: This is the first time he defends 419 
The black paint had washed off, leaving gleaming dollar notes behind. Only the first row of notes in the trunk box were real. The rest were old newspapers, painted black and cut to dollar size. Pray tell, who was that 419er who first thought up these serpentine scams? Men and women had received the acknowledgment of History for displaying less ingenuity in other fields. Read more at location 3598

No, this country was not fucked up. It was also not a place for idealizing and auld lang syne. Once you faced the harsh facts and learned to adapt,  Nigeria became the most beautiful place in the world. Read more at location 3726

There were many possible explanations for the atrocious traffic in Lagos—population explosion, insufficient mass transit, tokunbo vehicles going kaput, potholes in the roads, undisciplined drivers, random police checkpoints, and fuel queues. But in Cash Daddy’s opinion, the go-slow started whenever the devil and his wives were on their way to the market. Read more at location 3934

a person bites you on the head without being concerned about your hair, then you can bite him on the buttocks without being concerned about his shit. Is that not so?” Read more at location 4085

In other words, his family were neither osu nor ohu. None of their ancestors had been dedicated as slaves to the pagan gods of any shrine, none of their ancestors had been slaves to other families. And so we nwadiala, freeborn, were not forbidden from marrying amongst them. The first thing my father’s sisters had wanted to know when I told them about Ola was whether or not she was osu. But with Johnny, I had other concerns. Read more at location 4203

Cash Daddy was not in a hurry. He took slow steps toward the couple while one of his otimkpu followed, carrying a small Ghana-must-go bag in one hand. Read more at location 4338

At least nine muscular typographical errors rose from the page and gave me a slap across the face. Read more at location 4482

The glass cup dropped from my hand and colonized a large portion of the marble floor. Read more at location 4804

Really, there was no better legacy a father could bestow on his son than knowledge as vast as eternity. Read more at location 5086

In Nigeria, foreign degrees carried huge respect, whether they were from Manchester or Imperial or Peckham. And now that it seemed as if democracy had indeed come to stay, hordes from the diaspora were shaking off their phobias and coming back home, and people with local degrees were becoming more and more invisible. Read more at location 5100


Thursday, January 14, 2016

Praise of Savagery: Read It Because You Want To Learn About An Original Journey (Ethiopia)



READ IT BECAUSE:  You will learn about the incredible journeys that the original European adventurers made as they explored the previously "undiscovered" interior of Africa.  In Praise of Savagery is the memoir of a young man who befriended the great British explorer Wilfred Thesiger (see his books below).  Eventually, Cairns gets the opportunity to essentially retrace Thesiger's original steps when he first set out to find the origin of the Awash River in Ethiopia.  Cairns interweaves his journey with a retelling of Thesiger's own original journey.   It's frankly quite mind-blowing to consider just how brave/reckless one had to be during that time period to do this type of exploration and survive.  If you've ever been curious of Thesiger and adventurers of his ilk this is a great and accessible starter.














































































*One of my Reading Around the Continent books--the full list is here.
See our 20162015 and 2014 Reading Lists.

RELATED BOOKS:






KINDLE HIGHLIGHTS:
In Praise of Savagery by Warwick Cairns
Last annotated on January 5, 2016

The river flows on and on through the Danakil lands for mile after mile until there rises, in the distance, a line of purple hills known as the Magenta Mountains.  Read more at location 284

The river flows around Aussa on three sides, looking for a way out into the desert land beyond, where at some further point, before reaching the coast at Djibouti, it disappears.  Read more at location 291

the words of the great American modernist Frank Lloyd Wright, ‘If the roof doesn’t leak, the architect hasn’t been creative enough.’ Or, as he put it, rather more bluntly, to clients who had the temerity  Read more at location 329

A waiter appeared and pulled out a chair so that His Highness Asfa Wossen Tafari, Crown Prince of Abyssinia, eldest son of the Conquering Lion of the Tribe of Judah, King of Kings and Elect of God, and direct lineal descendant, it was said, of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, could sit down.  Read more at location 414

The story that Wilfred Thesiger heard of the events at the ruined Adoimara village by the Mullu River on his arrival Afdam Station was, in some ways, a remarkably similar one to the story of the MacDonalds of Glencoe; and yet, at the same time, it was very different indeed, and it revealed much about the culture of the Danakil peoples.  Read more at location 914

But the goat, which the moran led towards us by the horns, had done me no wrong.  Read more at location 1142

I wonder how deep the ancestral ties go. I wonder what it means to arrive, for the first time in your life, in a place where the people all look the way you look.  Read more at location 1247

Your typical pastoralist—your Samburu, your Rendille, your Turkana—he has a thousand hours more free time on his hands than you  Read more at location 1403

The Yanomami of the Amazon, meanwhile, get through their day’s work in even less time: two hours and forty-eight minutes.  Read more at location 1409

We pay dearly for them with our lives and with our freedom.  Read more at location 1425

And for all that, the Asaimara were, as he put it in his diary at the time, ‘A cheerful, happy people despite the incessant killing, and certainly not afflicted by the boredom which weighs so heavily today on our own young urban civilisation.’  Read more at location 1461

But here’s the thing: I had assumed that it was their pleasure so to do, just as it was my pleasure to do otherwise; and that the driving force in all human life, beyond the mere necessity of things, was pleasure. Or, better still, that living, as distinct from merely being alive, was the art of making pleasure out of necessity.  Read more at location 1578

he says, in essence, is that pleasure is the completion or perfection of human life.  Read more at location 1583

But these relentless, sensible, duty-driven people, they unsettle me.  Read more at location 1626

But in that part of the world the sheep and the goats look remarkably similar, to the point of being practically identical, and telling the one from the other was considerably trickier—apart from the sheep, from the back, having slightly fatter, more blubbery tails. But what if you had a scrawny sheep? Or what if you had a goat with a fat backside? Would they still be sheep and goat respectively? Or would they, in fact, become goat and sheep? And how would you know?  Read more at location 1722

While he was gone, Ali explained that the stick the head askari carried was the silver baton of command, which gave the bearer the authority of the Sultan himself,  Read more at location 1763

What they do is they take a water-container—in this case, one of our jerry-cans—and they fill it with water and tie it inside a wet sack. Then they hang it in the hottest place they can find—in a tree in full sunlight, say—and then, when the sack is dry they pour out the water and it is cold, as if it had come from a refrigerator.  Read more at location 1787

Among the Asaimara band, a man was expected to win his bride by organising a game rather like the one that small boys in England know as British Bulldog.  Read more at location 1808

At the ranks of squatting warriors and the small isolated group of my own men, I knew that this moonlight meeting in unknown Africa with a savage potentate who hated Europeans was the realisation of my boyhood dreams. I had come here in search of adventure: the mapping, the collecting of animals and birds were all incidental. The knowledge that somewhere in this neighbourhood three previous expeditions had been exterminated, that we were far beyond any hope of assistance, that even our whereabouts were unknown, I found wholly satisfying.   Read more at location 1970

On the next day they saw, in the distance, the desert’s edge; and beyond it, far off, the blue of the sea. A day later they reached the coast, at Tajura. It was now six full months since the expedition began.   Read more at location 2208

The sort of people, in fact, who at another time might be content to spend their whole lives sorting cheques into account-number order, or else training all hours to be good at a sport that they don’t actually enjoy, because it’s wrong to quit things.   Read more at location 2284

And from there it was not such a big step to the cotton mills. That’s progress for you, though. And that’s civilisation.  Read more at location 2289

There are some that see life as a matter of departures—a process of moving on and leaving behind, of exploration and discovery.  Read more at location 2293

But for him there were more departures still. To Arabia, there to live and travel with the Bedouin. To Iraq, there to spend some seven years, on and off, in the reed longhouses of the Marsh Arabs. And the books he wrote about those years and the photographs he took, and the acclaim that followed. And after, to Kurdistan, to Afghanistan, to the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram, to Morocco. To more fighting, still, on the side of the Royalists and against the communists in the Yemeni civil war. Then four expeditions, through the borderlands of Uganda, the Sudan and Kenya. During which he made a crossing of the deserts of the Northern Frontier District, climbing Mount Kulal and exploring the shores of Lake Turkana.  Read more at location 2307

But do you know how you tell the difference, eh? Between a sheep and a goat? Shall I tell you? Well, if the tail goes up, then it’s a goat. And if it goes down, it’s a sheep. That’s how you tell.  Read more at location 2349

‘Here’s a trick for you,’ he said. ‘It’s something the Bedu taught me. If you have no water, and no prospect of getting any, then you should put a little salt in the palm of your hand, like so, and then you lick it. That will help keep the thirst away.’  Read more at location 2352

In the country where I live there were once wolves in the mountains. There are none there now.   Read more at location 2454

His eyesight, now, had become so bad that his books were of no further use to him, and he gave them all away, so that his flat, once so full of them, now had, instead, row upon row of empty shelves. A short while later he moved from this flat to an old people’s home in Coulsdon in Surrey, run by the Friends of the Elderly, where he was given a room overlooking the lawn. In 2001 he began to be treated for Alzheimer’s as well as Parkinson’s. He began to lose his memory, and the shaking of his hands, which had been kept largely under control through drugs, began to return. He began, also, to dribble. This caused him great distress.  Read more at location 2477


Of someone standing by his bed, he demanded, ‘What is your tribe?’  Read more at location 2504

At another time he cried out, ‘For God’s sake, let me go.’ On Sunday, 24th August 2003, at just after five minutes past four in the afternoon, he died. He was ninety-three years old.  Read more at location 2505

No account of any part of Wilfred Thesiger’s life would be complete without a heartfelt plea to the reader buy, borrow or even steal his two stunningly beautiful master-works, Arabian Sands and The Marsh Arabs.   Read more at location 2537

But the point is this, I think. The point is this. Wilfred Thesiger was a man who made a difference to the world. And for those of us whose lives he touched, things will never be quite the same again.   Read more at location 2550