A word of caution for the newcomers--take TripAdvisor rankings with a grain of salt--most of them are written by Europeans who have much different standards and expectations for restaurant experience than your (above) average Yelp-loving American. Don't believe me, go eat out in Paris. Generally speaking, customer service-wise you can expect about 20% less attentiveness than in a typical Paris cafe. 95% of time your check will never be brought unless you ask for l'addition. All that said, this is a pretty excellent place to eat out with kids--you won't get dirty looks from anyone (except tourists) when your kiddos are running rampant throughout the restaurant grounds. Particularly strong kid-friendly restaurants will be marked with a *. Oh, and don't assume all these places will take a credit card. I always bring cash just in case.
Le Be: Probably my favorite "scene" restaurant in Tana. it's always packed with locals and expats--either at the bar or at the tables. The dining room is wide open so you can see everyone. Their 'thing' is that they offer menus on IPADs--why not right? Perfect place to go with a group of 6-8--call for reservations on the weekend.
Kudeta: This popular euroexpat hotspot is pronounced like what happened here in 2009--get it? If you are a foie gras person, this is a good place to start. You can grab drinks down the hill at Old Jack Daniels No. 7 Bar.
Porquoi Pas: This is a great small initmate shop owned by a french dude and his Malagasy wife/girlfriend. Not the easiest place to park but good food. We went here for Valentines Day one year.
La Varangue: Personally I think this place is overrated. It's the 'it' fancy place of choice for groups looking for a night on the town. I just think it tries a little too hard and even then I've found the service to be pretty lackluster for a place that purports to be the best place in town. All that said, I know tons of people who love it so you have to try it if you live here. For me, though, I go to Le Be or Hediard instead.
La Plantation: This is a date night staple--especially during the rainy season. It's classic french cuisine for the most part but the ambiance is kind of a Havana vibe. My favorite item--when they have it--is the wild boar (sanglier) stew which they make in a red wine sauce. They also make a good gazpacho...although they've changed the recipe for it a few times so we're never sure what we are going to get. This is also a great spot for lunch. It's not exactly kid friendly but if you sit outside there's tons of little geckos your kiddos can chase after.
*L'Orientale: Cool little Lebanese spot that also has a (pricey) Sunday brunch. There's a small playground here as well. Some people stop by their just to pick up an order of the pita bread. It never hurts to bring some bug spray with you if you are going to dine on the patio.
Palladios (Jumbo Score location): I've never been that impressed by the Palladio near to Dzamas. But grabbing a meal inside at the Palladios in the Jumbo Score complex is excellent. They put together a delicious magret de canard au miel and have several of the local beers on tap.
Dzama: The national purveyor of Malagasy rum (which they sell in the boutique to the right when you enter) also has a great restaurant and little bar.
The bar could be even cooler if they made the drinks faster...but that's a national problem here. There's nowhere in Madagascar where you will find the snappy, quick bar service like you would in the states. Order a cuba libre and it could literally take your barkeep 3-5 minutes as he tongs in the ice cubes one by one, slowly opens a bottle of coke, carefully measures out a small shot of rum, finds a lime, walks to the back to get a cutting board, finds a knife, slowly cuts a slice or two of the lime, and then finally completes the cocktail. It would probably blow their mind to see a bartender at a crowded spot in the US put together a rum and coke in literally 10 seconds. Again, though, not a Dzama problem...just how things are in these here parts:)
A quick note on the Dzama rum, the best bottle to get is in the shape of a squat rectangle with a black label--I wanna say its only 40,000MGA. This is the one that I always advise visitors to take home--it's a rich, full flavored rum with hints of vanilla that you can drink neat or with a diet coke. They also have some great aged rums that drink more like a scotch--you can taste them all at the bar as well.
*Chez Lorenzo: Good weekend lunch spot for pizza and more--I wrote about it here.
Combava: Close-ish to the US Embassy this hotel restaurant is a nice little spot for lunch. They also do a good magret de canard when it's not overcooked. When ordering the delicious duck breast you should treat it like a good steak--if you like it cooked anymore than a point (medium rare)--then you should probably order something else because you will lose most of the taste.
SRP (Snack Restaurant Pizzeria): So this place doesn't have a formal name that I know of. There's a small sign that says "Snack Restaurant Pizzeria" but that's about it. It's tucked back almost directly across the street from the Mormon church that's next to the US Embassy (NOT in the Leader Price parking lot complex). During lunch hours it has a small blackboard sign out front. This place caters mainly to locals or expats (*clears throat) in the know. There's a multitude of Malagasy dishes as well as french bistro items and simple dishes like grilled chicken. Of all the places on this post--it's easily the cheapest because it's priced for locals. You can have a delicious lunch here for 7000 MGA ($2.30).
Leader Price Restaurant: This is the restaurant connected to the Leader Price across from the US Embassy. From 1130 to 1400 it's always packed with locals and expats alike. They have daily specials but I always stick with the steak-frites. The cut of steak is surprisingly tender but requires a few shakes of salt. The roll they give with your meal is also yummy.
Chinese Place towards the airport:
Downtown Places
Villa Isaroka: Groovy little spot owned by a french-malagasy family with whom we are friends. The restaurant is housed in an old grand maison with several indoor and outdoor dining areas. The sisters who manage the restaurant also make some great purses and bags that they sell abroad and at the restauarant.
313: Three hundred thirteen is the height of the Eiffel Tower in meters. Housed inside the Louvre hotel, I've written about the restaurant and Gustave Eiffel 'legend' here. The only detractor from this restaurant is the ambiance and bright lighting--everything other aspect is superb. We had easily the best customer service that we've experienced in Madagascar while there. I recommend the ribeye steak of Madagascar--aka their sublime magret de canard--a point.
*Cafe de la Gare: A favorite Saturday/Sunday brunch spot. When it's nice out call ahead and make a reservation. There's a grassy area for the kids and the restrooms are housed in an old caboose. The menu is huge but if want attentive service you will need to chase down your server. A few local beers on draft which is always a plus.
Hediard: My favorite fancy place in Tana. Yes, everyone's go-to is La Varangue but I prefer the modernity and clean lines of Hediard. The older (1854 old) sister restaurant is in Paris. Always good service and I've had some incredible salmon there (which is tres dificile a trouver in Madagascar).
*Cafe de la Gare: A favorite Saturday/Sunday brunch spot. When it's nice out call ahead and make a reservation. There's a grassy area for the kids and the restrooms are housed in an old caboose. The menu is huge but if want attentive service you will need to chase down your server. A few local beers on draft which is always a plus.
Hediard: My favorite fancy place in Tana. Yes, everyone's go-to is La Varangue but I prefer the modernity and clean lines of Hediard. The older (1854 old) sister restaurant is in Paris. Always good service and I've had some incredible salmon there (which is tres dificile a trouver in Madagascar).
Le Be: Probably my favorite "scene" restaurant in Tana. it's always packed with locals and expats--either at the bar or at the tables. The dining room is wide open so you can see everyone. Their 'thing' is that they offer menus on IPADs--why not right? Perfect place to go with a group of 6-8--call for reservations on the weekend.
Kudeta: This popular euroexpat hotspot is pronounced like what happened here in 2009--get it? If you are a foie gras person, this is a good place to start. You can grab drinks down the hill at Old Jack Daniels No. 7 Bar.
Porquoi Pas: This is a great small initmate shop owned by a french dude and his Malagasy wife/girlfriend. Not the easiest place to park but good food. We went here for Valentines Day one year.
Le Carre: This is one of the few places serves sushi--sometimes that's a good thing, sometimes it's not. My bride had great salmon nigiri once and disgusting tuna nigiri a different time. Overall, though, great ambiance--especially if you sit outside. Good service. Receipts there do NOT break out the 20% VAT (for diplomats)
Tables des Haute Terraces (Palisandre Hotel): This is a place you go for the view. With an expansive outdoor terrace perched up in hauteville (high town), it's the perfect place for a que romantico date for lunch or dinner. It also has a spa for massages and other spa services.
Tables des Haute Terraces (Palisandre Hotel): This is a place you go for the view. With an expansive outdoor terrace perched up in hauteville (high town), it's the perfect place for a que romantico date for lunch or dinner. It also has a spa for massages and other spa services.
La Varangue: Personally I think this place is overrated. It's the 'it' fancy place of choice for groups looking for a night on the town. I just think it tries a little too hard and even then I've found the service to be pretty lackluster for a place that purports to be the best place in town. All that said, I know tons of people who love it so you have to try it if you live here. For me, though, I go to Le Be or Hediard instead.
Le Carnivore: This is the place that I always suggest for visitors. It's a Brazilian-style steak house where they cut the roasted meats off large skewers right onto your plate. Among the usual offerings (e.g. pork, chicken, steak) they also have steak and crocodile (no lemur though). One time I came here and ate so many chicken wings and lamb that I woke up at three in the morning drenched in sweat and reeking of...meats. Yes, the dreaded 'meat sweats'. It's hit or miss trying to make a reservation here for a large group...once they tried to shake me down for a deposit just to make a reservation. Here's a tip for life in Mada--never pay for anything up front.
Nerone: We really like the ambiance and decor of this place--clean, polished and modern. Le Jardin Secret did all the aluminum pieces here. The food, bread and pizza here were superb.
Le Petit Verdot: Multi-level, cozy. Classic French bistro joint. It's a staple lunch place for work.
Le Petit Verdot: Multi-level, cozy. Classic French bistro joint. It's a staple lunch place for work.
Il Rossini: Restaurant on the corner. We bad the great fortune to be seated next to an old creepy french dude and his prostitute date. Made for a really special evening to share the space with them. Other than that, it's a great place with excellent food and a cool ambiance.
Ozone Thai: They don't take credit cards. Good Thai food and they usually have live music on the weekends. Some people have complained it smells like gasoline but we've never smelt it.
Korean Place down the street from Ozone (right next to Mansoon place with a bunch of vines on the front): Super delicious.
Sakamanga: Very popular spot downtown. Great for lunch.
Korean Place down the street from Ozone (right next to Mansoon place with a bunch of vines on the front): Super delicious.
Sakamanga: Very popular spot downtown. Great for lunch.
L'Orion: Nice seafood restaurant. You can also do a cool chinese fondue/hotpot thing there.
Ivandry-ish places
*Emma Planque: My dated review is here. This is a great spot for weekend lunch spot for families with their outdoor playgournd.
Le Grand Orient: Their steak au trois poivres is the best in town. They told me they cook it sous vide and I believe it--consistently tender and cooked perfectly. We've probably been here close to 20 times over the past two years since it opened. When the weather is nice they have an outdoor seating area with some corner tables that have a back, cushioned seat that's great for cuddling. We also do take out from here quite often.
Le Grand Orient: Their steak au trois poivres is the best in town. They told me they cook it sous vide and I believe it--consistently tender and cooked perfectly. We've probably been here close to 20 times over the past two years since it opened. When the weather is nice they have an outdoor seating area with some corner tables that have a back, cushioned seat that's great for cuddling. We also do take out from here quite often.
*Infinithe: Saturday morning staple--been here at least 60 times. This is our Cheers--where everyone knows your name and order. Huge garden area for kids to run rampant. Their over-easy eggs (les oeufs au plat turner) are out of this world bad for you delicious. I'd also argue that this place has the best ice cream in town. They price it by the scoop and you can bring your own container if you'd like.
Tamboho: Yes, the hotel has a good restaurant inside. An interesting difference between the US and much of Africa is that the hotels usually have the best restaurants. Whenever I send officers to study in the US, I always encourage them to leave their hotels to eat and have to explain to them that in the United States, hotel restaurants aren't usually the best choice. Anyway, Tamboho has great food and also has cold THB on tap.
Tamboho: Yes, the hotel has a good restaurant inside. An interesting difference between the US and much of Africa is that the hotels usually have the best restaurants. Whenever I send officers to study in the US, I always encourage them to leave their hotels to eat and have to explain to them that in the United States, hotel restaurants aren't usually the best choice. Anyway, Tamboho has great food and also has cold THB on tap.
La Plantation: This is a date night staple--especially during the rainy season. It's classic french cuisine for the most part but the ambiance is kind of a Havana vibe. My favorite item--when they have it--is the wild boar (sanglier) stew which they make in a red wine sauce. They also make a good gazpacho...although they've changed the recipe for it a few times so we're never sure what we are going to get. This is also a great spot for lunch. It's not exactly kid friendly but if you sit outside there's tons of little geckos your kiddos can chase after.
*L'Orientale: Cool little Lebanese spot that also has a (pricey) Sunday brunch. There's a small playground here as well. Some people stop by their just to pick up an order of the pita bread. It never hurts to bring some bug spray with you if you are going to dine on the patio.
Palladios (Jumbo Score location): I've never been that impressed by the Palladio near to Dzamas. But grabbing a meal inside at the Palladios in the Jumbo Score complex is excellent. They put together a delicious magret de canard au miel and have several of the local beers on tap.
Dzama: The national purveyor of Malagasy rum (which they sell in the boutique to the right when you enter) also has a great restaurant and little bar.
The bar could be even cooler if they made the drinks faster...but that's a national problem here. There's nowhere in Madagascar where you will find the snappy, quick bar service like you would in the states. Order a cuba libre and it could literally take your barkeep 3-5 minutes as he tongs in the ice cubes one by one, slowly opens a bottle of coke, carefully measures out a small shot of rum, finds a lime, walks to the back to get a cutting board, finds a knife, slowly cuts a slice or two of the lime, and then finally completes the cocktail. It would probably blow their mind to see a bartender at a crowded spot in the US put together a rum and coke in literally 10 seconds. Again, though, not a Dzama problem...just how things are in these here parts:)
A quick note on the Dzama rum, the best bottle to get is in the shape of a squat rectangle with a black label--I wanna say its only 40,000MGA. This is the one that I always advise visitors to take home--it's a rich, full flavored rum with hints of vanilla that you can drink neat or with a diet coke. They also have some great aged rums that drink more like a scotch--you can taste them all at the bar as well.
*Chez Lorenzo: Good weekend lunch spot for pizza and more--I wrote about it here.
Other Parts of Town
*Jardin Secret: Not the easiest place to find--I wrote about it here. Good spots for a girls lunch/tea. The artist owner also makes all the aluminum stuff you see in town.
Combava: Close-ish to the US Embassy this hotel restaurant is a nice little spot for lunch. They also do a good magret de canard when it's not overcooked. When ordering the delicious duck breast you should treat it like a good steak--if you like it cooked anymore than a point (medium rare)--then you should probably order something else because you will lose most of the taste.
SRP (Snack Restaurant Pizzeria): So this place doesn't have a formal name that I know of. There's a small sign that says "Snack Restaurant Pizzeria" but that's about it. It's tucked back almost directly across the street from the Mormon church that's next to the US Embassy (NOT in the Leader Price parking lot complex). During lunch hours it has a small blackboard sign out front. This place caters mainly to locals or expats (*clears throat) in the know. There's a multitude of Malagasy dishes as well as french bistro items and simple dishes like grilled chicken. Of all the places on this post--it's easily the cheapest because it's priced for locals. You can have a delicious lunch here for 7000 MGA ($2.30).
Leader Price Restaurant: This is the restaurant connected to the Leader Price across from the US Embassy. From 1130 to 1400 it's always packed with locals and expats alike. They have daily specials but I always stick with the steak-frites. The cut of steak is surprisingly tender but requires a few shakes of salt. The roll they give with your meal is also yummy.
Chinese Place towards the airport:
.jpg)
