Showing posts with label madagascar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label madagascar. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 24, 2018

Kruse's Keys: Read "Beyond the Rice Fields" to Experience the Beauty, Love and Tragedy of Madagascar

It’s hard to express how much I looked forward to reading this book.  I spent three years living and working in Madagascar beginning in late 2013 (my collected writings from that time can be found here and here).  Prior to my arrival, I had scoured the libraries and internet for anything that I could find in English on Madagascar (my list of collected articles and books can be found here and here.).  Unfortunately, this was a rather small task once one gets beyond the myriad travel guides and nature-oriented literature.  
Then near the end of 2015, I came across a post from Ann Morgan, who spent a year reading a novel from EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.  In the post, she lamented the fact that not a single novel from Madagascar had ever been translated into English, but that a translator named Allison Charette had received a PEN grant to translate one and  she’d chosen “Beyond the Rice Fields.”  So I’d been literally waiting for the last two years for the book to be released and it did not disappoint.  

Malagasy author Naivo has crafting a heart-wrenching tale of love sets amidst one slave’s seemingly impossible yearning for success and upward mobility.  Impressively, the author’s expansive piece of pre-colonial historical fiction doesn’t hold back in addressing some oft-considered taboo subjects in Madagascar such as slavery and the wholesale execution of Christians under Queen Ranavalona’s reign in the 19th century. The narrative centers on Tsito, a child whose family were “forest people” and captured, then sold into slavery by the ruling Merina highlanders (called amboalambos, i.e., pig-dogs by the atandroy or antakarana--it’s unclear which tribe the author refers to when he uses the denotation ‘forest people).  He grows up with his master Rado’s family and develops a bond with Rado’s daughter Fara.  The story unfolds through dueling narratives between these two characters.  

The book reads as a mixture of hainteny (oral tale/poetry) and tantara (historical narrative) with a liberal dosing of Malagasy proverbs/adages (I counted 29 of them).  One in particular proves emblematic as Fara ponders her destiny:
Love is like rice, when you transplant it, it grows, but never in the same way.  It retains a bittersweet memory of its first soils. Every time it’s uprooted it dies a little; every time it’s replanted, it loses a piece of its soil.  But it also bears fruit (188).
Fara’s observation captures the tension and movement with Beyond the Rice Fields as the central characters and family find themselves uprooted numerous times amidst shifting factions as King Radama dies and the throne is passed to his wife Ranavalona.  Her reign marks the beginning of an increasingly fraught relationship between Christianity and political power in Madagascar, especially since the crown Prince becomes a Christian.  

While neither Fara nor Tsito are themselves Christians, they find themselves caught in the ill effects of Ranavalona’s power consolidation as she upends traditional tribal power alliances and eventually publicly executes thousands of Malagasy Christians.   Within all this chaos, however, Fara and Tsito ultimately find each other.  
In one key conversation, we hear echoes of the fampitaha song from the novel’s beginning as Fara lovingly spars with Tsito:
“And how will you love me?”  
He replies: “I will love you like my eyes, the windows of my soul; without them, I am as weak as a child, but with them, the world smiles at me.”
“Then do not love me, for I will be of no use to you in the darkness.”

“I will love you like the door to my home, protecting me from enemies and keeping the hearth warm.”
“Then do not love, for you push through me without shame to achieve your ends.”
“I will love you like the Sovereign of this realm, mistress of the our lives and destiny.” (238)
Naivo proves himself a skilled and brave writer in Beyond the Rice Fields. With the publication of his novel in English, he has illuminated a period of Malagasy history previously hidden from most of the world.  Along the way, he has brought to life the rich traditions and deep culture of a country and people that are all too often wrongly associated solely with lemurs and coups by radio DJs.  


Key Quotes:

“Sing for your highest dreams, dance for your most starstruck plans.  Then you cannot lose (120).”

Key Takeaways:
  • Unless you live in Madagascar I don't think that I can ever make you understand how important rice is to Madagascar, to its culture.  For starters, Malagasies eat rice AT EVERY MEAL. Living in its capital you see the rice fields everywhere, they are inescapable--RICE IS LIFE in Mada! 
  • Book captures a tension that exists today between the Merina highlanders, who consolidate power across Madagascar and everyone else (in the novel’s case the ‘forest people’ who refer to the Merinas as pig-dogs). While many would disagree as to the level of this tension today, I saw evidence of it, particularly between the Merina highlanders and those living on the coasts (6).
  • Torture as a whole plays a central role throughout the novel, whether in its use to break down slaves (9), or as an overall method of societal control.
  • The idea of “purification” also plays an important role in the culture and tradition of the villages and the palace.  Earlier on, we see the ‘witch doctors/seers’ practice of determining a child’s purity by putting them in the path of stampeding cattle and seeing if they live (56).  
  • Fara’s belief that “the city is my destiny” is a harbinger of doom (64)
  • Short hair done as a sign of mourning (72)
  • Keen insight into rather insidious ways that early white missionaries exercised control and ensured their livelihoods as they spread rumours that “killing a white man will give you leprosy” or “vazaha blood was a slow poison that made anyone who spilled it go deaf” (90).
  • Fampitaha singing/dancing competition is seen as elemental part of Malagasy society (117). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUxRMAZ6oM 
  • Merina referred to themselves as “People under the sky” (117).
  • Lanterns and lights are associated with childhood and celebration of children (133)
  • Annual Bathing feast described as essentially a sexual free for all, as long as the participants hide while they do it (144)
  • While the Queen starts anti-Christian actions (171), they also had the effects of galvanizing the spread of Christianity (175).
  • Tangena poison test played a huge role until the Queen’s successor outlawed it.  Anyone so accused would be required to drink the poison (derived from the toxic nuts of tangena tree.  Then they’d have to swallow three bird skins.  If they could vomit up the three bird skins without dying then they’d be declared innocent.  Evidently this was a widely accepted method of guilt determination with something like 2% of the population dying from it every year (much more during Ranavalona’s reign) (216).  
  • Under the quee, the palace/government started to confiscate everything from the people (220).  
  • Beautiful writing: “I will love you” (238)
  • Words in English as holding no sacred virtue (267)
  • More beautiful writing: “My heart is as solid as a shield” (274)
  • It becomes evident under the queen that the military generals wield the real power (342)
  • Habits of a slave described (23)
Proverbs:
  1. A slave skilled at valiha: when you ask him to play, he refuses, but as soon as you speak of work, he goes mad for the music. (9)
  2. A crying orphan, only pitied by the back of his own hand. (10)
  3. Do not cook meat without knowing its name (15).
  4. The seer who wants to make the impossible believable is not afraid to make dying men dance (17).
  5. A banana threatened with a knife with eventually be pierced (33).
  6. A lie likes to dress itself up as a story (40).
  7. A servant’s undivided piaster is the master’s esteem (48).
  8. You must not judge the stranger by his yellowish face but think of his family on the other side of the earth (58).
  9. Better a small soul respected by his friends than a great soul who perishes in vain (69).
  10. The tree that grows too tall will be thrashed by strong winds (70).
  11. The sovereign’s word is law; it enters our homes not on tiptoes, but stomping its feet (88).
  12. He who changes lords changes status (93).
  13. The City’s great houses, the first built are soonest dissatisfied (107).
  14. Hope cannot vanquish destiny (110).  
  15. Only simpletons want to be like their fathers (116).  
  16. He who shows his back hides what’s in his soul (125).
  17. He who has a white soul is like a bird of ill fate (125).
  18. If the waterfall rumbles, it is because of the rocks; if kings rule, it is because of the vahoaka (128).
  19. The poor are not friends of the affluent (171)
  20. Love is like rice, when you transplant it, it grows, but never in the same way.  It retains a bittersweet memory of its first soils. Every Time it’s uprooted it dies a little; every time it’s replanted, it loses a piece of its soil.  But it also bears fruit (188).
  21. They can rise to the top as cream does, but milk will always reveal a common ancestor (189).
  22. A meeting of dogs where they only sniff each other’s asses (199).  
  23. Those who are unified are like a rock, those who are divided are like the sand (221).
  24. Love is like the silkworm in winter: touching it makes its eyes open wide(232).
  25. Only halfwits have less ambition that their fathers (242).
  26. The soul is what makes us human (251).
  27. Everyone is in himself a noblemen (251).
  28. Destiny is a chameleon on a tree branch, it only takes a hissing child for it to change its color (318).
Songs and Hainteny:
We’ll go to the City of Thousands
To eat the laying hen
To eat the fatty zebu hump (18)

The village is rich with children
Grandmother is lucky indeed
Her home has a hundred slaves
Her home holds a hundred cattle (26)

To mediate the difficult
        As saffron does (73)

Come forth! Let them appear
        And the most beautiful will triumph
They will be judged
And the ugliest will disappear (126)

Tell me how I can keep your love:
        If I knot it into a corner of my gown
        The thread might break it and I could lose it.
        If I place it in the palm of my hand
        I’m afraid it might dissolve into dampness…
Instead, I’ll put it in my heart
Although it will make me perish
Will that not make me love you all the more? (131)

Bulls fighting within the herd
        The victor is not cheered
        The vanquished is not booed (135)

The trees of sweet-smelling wood
        Counting two, there finding three
        There on the tall mountain
        On Mount Adrigiba
They wanted to sleep
Pressed against each other
At least rejoice, oh my soul,
That you do not possess
The one you do not love (146)

A thousand words
        A hundred stories
        But all talk ends
        At the hour of confrontation (275)

I implore your forgiveness, O my earth
        I appeal to your mercy, O my earth!
        You, who cover our dear ones
        You, their final shelter
        We trample you underfoot
        But you are the water’s cradle
        And you grow the ears of rice
        And you absorb all sorrow
        O my earth (348).

Key References (for further study):

  • Fampitaha competition (12)
  • Fara name (15)
  • Kalanoro (96)--mythical creature--there’s some weird stuff on the internet about this one
  • “Paul and Virginia”  love story of star-crossed lovers in Mauritius.  You can read more about it here(123)
  • Christian holy man who was killed by the Queen--more about him here. (162)
  • Fara describes the dying away of fampitaha competitions, are these still held today? (192)
  • Mantasoa, man-made lake/Laborde built the city there is and is buried there. (193)
  • Royal decree for export rights (227) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Laborde 
  • Menamasos artists society to surpass Vazahas (236) reference book
  • Zafamanelo family right to recite kabary was rescinded by the Queen(239)
  • Crown prince Radama I a christian (243)
  • Madagascar sent ambassadors to England and France in the 1800’s (247)
  • Sidikina derivation of God Save the King played when foreign rulers would visit Madagascar (259)
  • http://kruzoo.blogspot.com/2016/08/veloma-list-of-madagascar-posts.html
  • http://kruzoo.blogspot.com/2016/08/veloma-list-of-poems-written-while-in.html
  • http://kruzoo.blogspot.com/2016/08/antananarivo.restaurantlist.bestofmadagascarhediard.html
  • http://kruzoo.blogspot.com/p/mada-articles.html
  • www.brooklynbookfestival.org/authors/naivo/
  • http://ile-en-ile.org/naivo/
  • http://www.wordswithoutborders.org/article/december-2015-the-conspiracists-naivo-allison-m-charette
  • https://pen.org/introducing-the-literature-of-madagascar-on-translating-naivo/

Wednesday, April 26, 2017

Vakio Milamina: Loved It Because It Gives You the Inside Scoop (Madagascar)

Vakio Milamina
https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=kruzoo03-20&l=li3&o=1&a=1329622197 
Loved It Because: it gives you the inside scoop on the culture and politics of Madagascar. Soamiely is the rare Malagasy author who writes in (great) English about these things.  I lived in Madagascar for three years and often read Soamiely's posts on Medium but it was only once I was back stateside that I realized that he'd written two books (his other: Ambony-Ambany (Upside Down) is available to purchase on Lulu.com).  

Vakio Milamina (i.e., A Quiet or Smooth Read) lays out the author's thoughts on life in Madagascar through a series of very loosely related essays.  In particular, I loved "It's All Part of Growing Up" which is basically a 6 page rundown on the political history of Madagascar.  Other essays like "Fiadanana and Moramora" made me laugh--moramora IS the quintessential essence of being Malagasy (from a vazaha aka foreigner perspective).  It captures the incrementalism of progress (or de-evolution) and a peace with slowness that one notices even after only a few days in the country.  Perhaps most useful for any visitor/tourist is his essay "Our Unambiguously Ambiguous Art of Conversation" in which the author lays out why a Malagasy will seldom ever say 'no'.  If I had realized this early on I would have saved myself a lot of stress and frustration. But there's no reason to read just one essay--Vakio is the wonderful book that can be read in a single sitting or on a short plane ride.  You'd also be well served to follow him on twitter at @soamiely 
*One of my Reading Around the Continent books--the full list is here.



**See our 2017, 20162015 and 2014 Reading Lists.  

***Want to read more on Madagascar, check out my compilation of posts from our three years there here.  


NOTES:
18 reciprocity ingrained in Malagasy culture
21  why there is the cycle of Malagasy political violence: 2 options for presidents
22  'in politics I have no relatives'
40  art of conversation--not every saying outright 'no'
42  until society explodes
44-7  Embracing a culture of failure in policy-making
68-74  Great summary of Malagasy political history
79-83  fiadanana and moramora!
83-87  How to make change and progress
98  TNR airport 

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

The Morocco-Madagascar Connection

Not many outsiders know about the 60 year-old Madagascar-Morocco connection.  I first discovered it when I was looking on google maps and noticed a Mohammed V street in downtown Antananarivo running along the eastern side of Lake Anosy.  With the Francophonie Summit fast approaching (to be held in Tana this November), there are rumors that a Moroccan king will once once again return to Madagascar--this time it will be Mohammed VI...with an entourage of 300.


























Having been interested in Morocco since I lived there in 5th grade I decided to do a little digging (it's worth noting that there's close to nothing written about King Mohammed V's (pronounced as Mohamed Cinq) exile in Madagascar in English.  Everything that follows has been culled from multiple French sources).

 It turns out that France exiled the Sultan Mohammed V to Madagascar from 1953-55--a plan that backfired on them--only intensifying anti-colonial sentiment and violence.  In fact, as one of the US political officer's in Rabat at the time recalls, the French literally grabbed the Sultan out of his palace in the middle of the night (20 August 1953) and put him on a DC3 airliner.  But of course, he didn't fly direct to Morocco--the HuffPost Maghreb (didn't even know that was a thing did you?) has an interactive overview of the actual path he took.

His first stop was on the island of Corsica where he initially refused to exit the plane because he thought he was going to be executed. This was after a 7 hour flight on the spartan aircraft during which the royal family were only offered hastily-made ham sandwiches.  He then stayed for two weeks in the prefecture palace before the French decided to move him to the southern countryside of the island at the hotel du Mouflon d'Or--the hotel is still open today, you can check out its circa 2000 website here.  Evidently, however, the cold mountain air affected the Sultan's health so on 24 October they moved him to northwest end of the island in the town of Ile-Rousse where he stayed at the Hotel Napoleon Bonaparte.  When Count Clauzel visited the Sultan there he remarked on the Sultan's pitiable state as he lay about unshaven. He coordinated with the French government to embark the Sultan and his family to Madagascar on a DC-4 on or about 27 January 1954 (with a brief stopover in Brazzaville)

Upon his arrival in Antananarivo, the Sultan, his two sons, his six months pregnant second wife, and his 8 concubines were moved 170 km south to the town of Antsirabe.  The French originally put his family in the empty military center before moving him to the Hotel des Thermes.  The move to the hotel was prompted by the impending arrival of the Sultan's first wife (and their three daughters)--he needed more room!   Known for its thermal baths, Antsirabe turned out to be an ideal location for the Sultan who was worried because of his second son Moulay Rachid's heart condition.

The "View from Fez" blog has a nice short writeup on the Hotel des Thermes in Antsirabe where the Sultan M5 spent most of his time.

There's been a decent amount written about M5's time in Antsirabe.  Evidently, the Sultan had a religious routine but his two sons and their friends got into a lot of trouble spending money on credit. chasing women and getting into fights.  Another familiar sight was the Sultan's harem parading through town Indian file all veiled up.  The Sultan was such a regular sight in town that most locals didn't even look twice at him.  Three months after he arrived the princess Lalla Amina was born there in Antsirabe (she died in 2012).

On 6 November 1955 he would finally be called to Paris to sign an accord with Prime Minister Antoine Pinay as a precursor to Moroccan independence.  Leaving Antsirabe, they ended up giving much of their possessions to local staff and friends to include their sewing machines...so there's someone in Antsirabe with the royal family's sewing machine today.  The Sultan bade farewell to Antsirabe, driven north in a Ford auotomobile driven by his oldest son--leaving one to wonder: where is that car today?:


Pinay and M5
10 days later, he would return to Morocco after an exile of more than two years.  Some four months later on March 2, 1956 Morocco would officially won its independence from France with M5 ushering in a constitutional monarchy and a very gradual shift from French influence.


AUTHOR'S NOTE:  All that said, the initial thing that opened up this rabbit's hole (i.e., the google map random viewing of Mohammed V boulevard) might not even be legit.  Until a year ago, anyone could go onto google map maker and name any vacant streets in Antananarivo themselves.  I did this myself which you can read about here.

References and links for further research:
TELQUEL: The True History of the Exile of the Alouites
MAGHREB HUFFPOST: The Exile of Mohamed V
SLATE AFRICA: The True History of the Alouite Exile
ASSTN OF DIPLOMATIC STUDIES AND TRAINING: French Colony to Sovereign Naiton
JEUNE AFRIQUE: Mohamed V's Life in Madagascar

Monday, August 29, 2016

Things I Love About Madagascar (TILAM): Drumline, Bubba, Chameleons, Dancing, Bazaars, Clouds, Tennis and more

Living overseas (PARTICULARLY in a third world country) can be exciting, interesting, terrifying, boring, sad, amazing, challenging and lonely ... in no particular order.

Eventually you come to some inner negotiated psychic truce wherein you realize that you will just have to ride out those valleys because they pass...they have to right?  Now that does not make them any easier but sometimes remembering the peaks can.


My lovely wife started doing these "Things I Love About Madagascar" posts on her facebook last year and I've collected them all here.  I still need to upload some pics for some of them but I wanted to get this posted...finally.

Things I love about living in Madagascar:  DRUMLINE. Around Christmas every year (we've been here now for three of 'em!).





Things I love about living in Madagascar: THE BIRDS.  Our little corner of the Indian Ocean has an amazing collection of beautiful bright birds that we've never seen anywhere before.


Things I love about living in Madagascar: BUBBA.  Bubba is "our" 20-year old irradiated tortoise.   These tortoises get passed down from family to family--our gardener mentioned that Bubba had about 4 different names before we gave him one.


Things I love about living in Madagascar:  Dancing with my husband :) 
Our friends throw some great parties and with how affordable babysitters are here ($2 an hour), it's so much fun to get to go out dancing together!











































Things I love about living in Madagascar:

The Winnie the Pooh clouds :) Especially During rainy season!
































Things I love about living in Madagascar:
Meeting amazing people Who not only want to make a difference but do! 
Check out the website for Hay Kanto! Or Iris Oprhanage!  Or the Street Kids Center
!


































Things I love about living in Madagascar:
Tennis lessons with my hubby on Friday afternoons! PS I'm really bad but maybe with some lessons  Annemarie Orr  Will play with me some day :)


Things I love about living in Madagascar:

The girls learning french (and Malagasy). Macee Took a bite of her lunch and said "C'est bon mama (it's good mama)" smile emoticon

Things I love about living in Madagascar:
Fresh fruit / vegetable stands! 

Things I love about living in Madagascar:

When a fruit / vegetable season returns, it feels like Christmas :)


Things I love about living in Madagascar:
Fresh strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, herbs, etc from our backyard :) 
(I Realize we could do this in the states I'm pretty sure I Would not-have the full time gardener :))

Things I love about living in Madagascar:

Jasmine in October. Amidst the ubiquitous red-brown dust covers everything, the unfiltered belching diesel fumes, you might catch a waft of sweet floral magic that belongs on a tropical beach somewhere.  

Things I love about living in Madagascar:  Christmas Bazaars.
Every year there's a huge Christmas bazaar downtown with a cornucopia of embassy tables from all over the world!  One year the Russians ran out of change and were giving out change in vodka shots.

Things I love about living in Madagascar:
Rainy nights and mornings blue sky!



Things I love about living in Madagascar:
The neon green fields of rice paddies!


Things I love about living in Madagascar: WORK ORDERS.  When something breaks, you put in an embassy work order and the awesome staff comes over within a day to fix it.  But our favorite part is that they come over and hang up all your pictures!


Things I love about living in Madagascar:  CHAMELEONS! 

Almost every day for the past year the girls and their go on a wagon ride in our yard looking for chameleons, they've only ever seen 2!  But every day the girls are hopeful! The other day we spotted our 3rd! So beautiful! The girls were beyond excited :)